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Cake day: July 3rd, 2023

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  • This is normal behavior. There is much more to the JVMs memory usage beyond what’s allocated to the heap - there are other memory regions as well. There are additional tuning options for them, but it’s a complicated subject and if you aren’t actually encountering out of memory issues you have to ask if this is worth the effort to tune it.


  • I record everything on Plex off an antenna/hdhomerun and fast forward through all the cruft. We can watch about 3-4 hours of coverage each hour depending on the sport. There’s no way I could watch it live. Plex will get a bit confused about whether or not an episode is new or not, so to prevent it missing anything I post process each file into a new library and fix up the episode name with a timestamp. This does result in some repeated recordings, but we just delete any matches we’ve already seen. Been doing it this way for the last few Olympics and it’s manageable.








  • Interesting! I haven’t had issues with ABS at stock temps in my X1C - 90C for the build plate - and I print a lot of large flat ish designs. I have had more trouble with PETG warping, and for HIPS I have to crank up the first layer to 110, then 100 for subsequent layers of it won’t stick to the Engineering Plate with glue stick at all.

    My chamber temps do tend to be a bit lower, since I have an exhaust fan hooked up the carbon filter fan output to vent outside since ABS and HIPS fumes are nasty.

    But yes, I’ve found 10C or so can make a huge difference when things do go south, it just hasn’t been an issue on my X1C for ABS, fortunately. Interesting to see how much a towel improves your chamber temps though!

    Overall I love my X1C, one of the best decisions I made, don’t miss my old kludgy FlashForge Creator Pro and all its quirks one bit.












  • It’s not that bad, glue and screw. Remove the inner board from the drawer front and reattach it to the drawer first. You might have to clean up the MDF a bit. Use filler if you have to, maybe, but don’t use nails. Then reattach the drawer front - again with screws. It might not look perfect, but it’ll probably look fine when the drawer is closed. Consider wood block fillets at the interior corners (sacrificing a bit of space).

    Alternatively you could rebuild the drawer frame, using the same drawer front so it matches.