• 13 Posts
  • 492 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: August 2nd, 2023

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  • I agree, its not even worth to try imo. Frame geometry is super important. Even extrusions can be painfull if they are not cut well enough. If you want the best result you should mill them (instead of cutting them with a saw).

    3D printer tolerances are far from acceptable and then every material shrinks differently (+ there are many other disadvantages).

    On the other hand, prusa and voron are examples of great use of 3D printed parts where you benefit from flex. Its a brave design decision that works amazingly well, but they can barelly print first layer without ABL or simmilar. Yeah…ABL compensates for shitty tolerances and we end up with bent 3D printed part that counts as perfect print lol


  • I was mostly joking, but to use metric system you don’t have to do much, just learn it. Honestly, I wasn’t expecting I’ll change the world aynway haha

    Knowing both is useful and IMO it is the easiest for engineers and construction/production workers. For example here where I am, a lot of measurement tools have both units already (like measuring tape with meters and inches)


  • I don’t get why Americans and some other countries don’t use metric system. Guys! x10, x100, x1000 or mm, m, cm, km is way easier than 🦶, ", ', mile, yard or whatever weapon you use to hurt yourself lol. I know scientists get that, but its easy for them to convert anyway. Imagine that 120 cent is 1$ haha

    I’m familiar with both, but only use inch for screen size and for some specific pipes that are made in ". And yeah, the guy from the picture is 188 cm tall or 1,88 m. Don’t think anyone use 10th of the mm for that and even if they did they would probably say 1879,6 mm



  • I see the mesh, but cant tell what is wrong with it. Is your mesh about the same every time after running ABL? If you check any point on the right side, do you think your bed and nozzle are at the same distance after every ABL run, but sensor reading is wrong on that side?

    Basically you have to identify is your sensor faulty, otherwise your bed or X gantry might be moving in Z over time. Faulty sensor can be fixed or replaced or just go to manual mesh leveling.

    I would try probing the same point multiple times in a row and see what difference you see in readings. You could also do a manual mesh and compare it with auto bed mesh.

    Move nozzle close to the bed, disable XY motors and move nozzle around while observing the gap. 0.1 mm variation can be seen by naked eye (alternative to paper method) and you have 0.6 mm according to your mesh.

    Use a metal ruler (or something flat) and a light to confirm how much and where is bed bent, again visual inspection.


  • You get different map every time? Maybe your sensor is not trigering consistently? Is it wobbly? Hopefully its the sensor issue, otherwise its probably hardware issue (X Gantry or bed).

    the right side of the bed is always printing too close

    If the height diffetrence is always the same, you can try manual bed mesh leveling (sensor not even required). Create one map and load it every time. You can also just eddit existing map if you know what is wrong.


  • Thx for input.

    I agree with you mostly, but there are also unfortunate examples even with big eu brand as well. Im not paranoid, but home 3D printer is more like production machine than kitchen appliance imo. They have moving parts and print failures happen sooner or later. Fire in a kitchen is not that rare it seems anyway.

    Before reading comments, I wasnt aware that prusa is selling fire suppression system, but I guess there is a reason for that