I’m actually not afraid of printing things larger than a few square inches on the bed… Waited way too long for this. Tightening up the eccentric screws on the bed carriage so it doesn’t wobble also helps.
I swapped to glass a few years ago and the things I have learned since are that glass that’s too thick will cause you issues with bed temperature, and you can print PETG on it so long as you can guarantee you’ll be there when the print finishes to release it with IPA or you’ll have chunks of glass missing from your build plate. I got a G10 build plate 2 days ago and sofar I’m liking it more than glass
A thin layer of glue stick kept petg from bonding to glass for me, but a nice thick layer of G10 is better as long as you heat soak it before printing. I roughed mine up with some sandpaper and haven’t had any issues. Just remember good ppe when working with fiberglass.
I had to preheat for 20 minutes when I was using a glass bed. Took ages but the results were so smooth.
When I went to glass it took me an embarrassingly long time to realize I needed to up my bed temp by 10° if I wanted good adhesion
I used to print on glass, until I nearly cut a finger off.
Make sure you’re using glass that can either handle the thermal cycling (that is not anything you can find at a Home Depot), or is tempered so it won’t have giant sharp shards when it does finally break due to the heating -> cooling -> heating -> cooling cycles of 3d printing.
Mine did that in my hands, and the shards it broke into were sharp enough to cut down to the bone on two of my fingers, requiring a hospital trip.
…I use textured PEI now, which probably won’t try to remove any digits.
Looks like nice even pressure, good job! It looks like you’re underextruding a bit though
That looks great. How did get such good adhesion? My bed is super uneven so I switched to glass and had incredible results, but I have to babysit the first few layers because 50% of the prints are wrapped around the nozzle by the end.
I dunno, I use a mirror tile heated to 60⁰C. TPU and PLA seem to stick just fine. Have you tuned your first layer height?
I also give it a good scrub with isopropyl between prints.
you can get official glass beds
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ
@bdonvr you’ve probably heard this before… But magnetic PEI build plate is the best adhesion I’ve had.
Used glass on my CR10S but it’s night and day vs PEI on the ender 3 S1 plus.
Keeping it clean is key but copious quantity of IPA and a very light sand has worked so far.That’s what I was using before, but my problem is my bed is fairly significantly warped… Inflexible glass fixes this entirely and I’ve had absolutely no issues with adhesion. At least not with PLA or TPU.
Although thinking about it I could clip the PEI to the glass giving it a flat bed…
I bought the carborundum glass bed for my S1 Pro, it’s replaced my PEI bed entirely and see no reason to go back.
Mine came with carborundum glass and I got a PEI and like it way better.
