• ptc075@lemmy.zip
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    2 months ago

    Not a direct answer, but if you ever get a chance - go walk around a self-serve junkyard. This is where cars go when they finally just aren’t worth fixing anymore. It is eye opening. There are cars that you will still consider ‘new’ that have already given up the ghost (mainly Dodge/Chrysler, Hyundai/Kia, & Nissan). And you can’t help but think - WTF are these cars doing here, aren’t these still for sale at the dealership?

    Conversely, there are also cars there so old you hardly recognize them (usually Honda, Toyota, and full size pickups from Ford/GM).

  • DigitalDilemma@lemmy.ml
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    2 months ago

    A Mitsubishi Colt I bought from a guy in a scrapyard for £50 because my Allegro had just been stolen and I needed something quick to get to work. He told me it had an MOT and to come back the next day to pick it up (in the days before it was online) He wasn’t there. It was the rustiest POS ever - bits kept falling off, you could see the road in several places through the floor. Engine was good but that was the only thing. In a lifetime of exercising Bangernomics, that was the stand out terrible car.

    Most I’ve lost on a car was a more recent Shogun. Bought for £7,500, cost £2000 in repairs then had a lot more pending. Sold for £1400 in less than a year.

  • Chozo@fedia.io
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    2 months ago

    I had a 2006 Ford Taurus that would’ve been stronger if it was built with Legos. Water pump fell off one day - like… just… fell off. The brackets weren’t broken or misshapen or anything like that, it just fell. None of the bolts were loose or unthreaded or anything. I know that doesn’t make sense. I KNOW. It makes even less sense that it happened twice.

    There was also some kind of electrical issue that I could never isolate, but it was causing fuses to blow out every couple months, and would burn out the starter about once a year. I had to replace that starter so many times that I stopped needing to refer to my Chilton book for the steps. Sometimes the power steering would just stop working and then start working again with no warning.

  • toastal@lemmy.ml
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    2 months ago

    Mid-2000s Suzuki Forenza. I loved having a hatchback for getting additional storage while not sacrifing fuel efficiency. This part was good on paper, but I had issues with overheating + lack of power + alignment, but the real killer was constantly needing to replace the transmission selector switch—which got me ripped off for quite a while before I know what was wrong & mechanics absolutely took advantage of me if I didn’t say exactly what was wrong. This affected almost everyone that bought the vehicle. I stuck with it for like 4 years, & ditched it for a early-2010s Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart Hatchback which was nicer in literally every way & had no issues with the vehicle. As a bonus I didn’t have to be yet another Subaru Outback driver meme.

    I didn’t have it terribly long tho—I had to sell it to leave the US. I had to sell it to a dealer since I couldn’t find a buyer, & it was kinda rare to find them. Guys at the dealer ran out to gawk at it, one piped a “this is a nice car; why you think you had trouble selling”? “It’s not a Subaru”, I lamented. The rest of the men nodded their heads in agreement with that fake smile of knowing the truth. & now Mitsubishi no longer makes sedans/wagons.

    But despite moving from something I loathed to loved & selling prematurely, I am not too sad since being outside the US, having a car is not a requirements where walking, public transport, & a motorbike (want a bicycle) cover my needs while being much cheaper & better for the environment.

  • ChicoSuave@lemmy.world
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    2 months ago

    I bought a 1987 Cutlass Supreme and thought I had one of the best cars ever made. Except I bought it used in 2003. I learned a lot about carburetors and tightening belts that summer. The poor thing died one foggy fall day when a tractor grazed the side of it and the damage was more than the $400 the car was worth.

  • Davel23@fedia.io
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    2 months ago

    Not mine, but an ex-girlfriend had a Mazda 3 with a blown clutch. That thing sucked.

      • Davel23@fedia.io
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        2 months ago

        I don’t remember, this was back in the mid-'90s so it was no later than '95 or so.

        • sping@lemmy.sdf.org
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          2 months ago

          Must have been the 323, before they rebranded to 3 in the early 2000s. Shame for you it was broken, they were good drivers’ cars in a modest way

  • abbenm@lemmy.ml
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    2 months ago

    Probably my 2008 Suzuki Reno. It’s coolant system was made of such brittle crumbly plastic that it would crack and leak out all the coolant, and I didn’t realize this at first I didn’t know to look for it, so I get off the highway after driving 20 miles just in time for huge plumes of white smoke to be coming out of the front of my car.

    I got it fixed only for it to crack again and leak again. And it became this nightmare of whack a mole where I’m constantly adding coolant, constantly checking my temperature gauge, constantly bringing it in to be fixed.

    And then the whole engine died on the highway and I had to pull over while driving to my new job.

  • ctkatz@lemmy.ml
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    2 months ago

    my 2011 toyota camry.

    it’s also the best car I’ve ever owned, probably because it’s the only car I’ve ever owned.

  • fubarx@lemmy.ml
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    2 months ago

    The car I had the most trouble with wasn’t because it was a bad car, but because it kept getting trashed. VW Cabriolet convertible. Bought it when I got my first real job out of school.

    One week after driving it off the lot, parked on a busy city street, someone slashed the roof and tore out the stereo. Fixed it all up. Insurance rate went up. Six months later, knife through the roof AND a smashed window. Stereo gone. Switched to a removable, pull-out stereo. Still got broken into.

    Had dozens of slashes/smashes. At one point, just left the door locks open. Nothing to take. Someone slept in the back seat (left food wrappers) and pilfered through the ashtray where I kept loose change.

    Loved driving it with the top down, but what a pain it was to fix.

  • GbyBE@discuss.tchncs.de
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    2 months ago

    Without a doubt, that would be the first car I ever owned, a Renault 21 2.0 diesel that was about 12 years old when I bought it in 1999 of thereabouts, for slightly north of € 1000.

    It had some rust, but the worst part about it was that it was slow as molasses. It would do 0-100kph in 25 seconds on a good day, with a top speed of 125 on the speedometer. I laughingly called that my highway cruise control 😁

    At the same time, I have very fond memories of that car, as it allowed me to visit my then girlfriend (and current wife), and had loads of cargo space. It also handled speed bumps incredibly well, so I didn’t really need to slow down for them. It also helped that I never had any reliability issues with that thing, until it was totaled.

  • MoonMelon@lemmy.ml
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    2 months ago

    Not me, but someone I was dating. Her family owned a Chevrolet dealership and she was always driving some kind of lightly used mid-range sedan. Two of them catastrophically failed and one of them would randomly shut off when going over slight bumps. Like going over an expansion joint on a bridge could do a full shut off, no power steering, etc. These were all sub 20k mile cars. She would just get it towed back to the lot and get another one, like a disposable product. The family laughed about ripping off customers. The whole operation was banking off soccer moms buying enormous Suburbans and boomer nostalgia for Corvette. Basically just rent seeking an ancient contract to be the dealer for a large territory. Needless to say I will never buy a Chevy.

  • azimir@lemmy.ml
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    2 months ago

    For a loose definition of “me” and more “my parents when I was young” was a mid-70’s Fiat. I have lots of memories where we waited in some parking lot or by the freeway for a tow truck or some other help to arrive.

  • CrazyLikeGollum@lemmy.world
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    2 months ago

    A 2011 GMC Terrain. It burned oil like none other. The power steering would occasionally just not work upon starting the car, requiring me to turn it off and on again a several times. Sometimes, I’d stop at a red light, the engine would die, and when I’d restart it it’d go into limp mode. And traction control and AWD would occasionally just give out, which can be dangerous where I live due to ice and snow.

    The thing was a hazard and GMC and all associated brands can fuck right off.

      • SolidGrue@lemmy.world
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        2 months ago

        The OEM part is, as the service manager at the dealer put it, “on intergalactic back order.”

        They don’t make the OEM part any more, and anyone who has new stock isn’t selling it to other dealers. You might be able to find a Chinese version, but if you have a warranty or service plan, you’re rolling the dice with it.

        It’ll be a class action suit one day, I feel it in me bones. 🏴‍☠️

    • corroded@lemmy.world
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      2 months ago

      Maybe I’m totally wrong, but doesn’t EGR stand for EXHAUST Gas Recirculation? Is the Volt a hybrid? I thought it was an EV and thus had no exhaust.

      Edit: This was a joke, wasn’t it?

      • Daeraxa@lemmy.ml
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        2 months ago

        The Volt is a PHEV, I think the Bolt is the pure EV. I was considering its Vauxhall badged version years ago as a choice for a company car.

      • SolidGrue@lemmy.world
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        2 months ago

        The Volt is a hybrid gas & electric. The gas engine is there in part to charge the battery, and in part to power the electric drivetrain.

        Under normal drive conditions, the gas engine short-cycles and doesn’t really come up to operating temp, which gums up the EGR valve causing the valve to pull too much current and start blowing fuses that power other critical parts of the battery charge control circuit. Left us stranded on an interstate this past spring until I could limp it to an auto parts store off the next exit to buy a replacement fuse. It ate two more before we could get home.

        (edit: the OEM part is no longer manufactured, and what OEM stock is left is unobtainable. What’s left is remanufactured, Chinese aftermarket, or a scam. Install at your own peril.)

        The workarounds to disable or bypass the EGR (for now) can cause other potential issues with the engine in the long run. Simply disconnecting the EGR keeps it from blowing fuses, but then the car isn’t road legal in many states because it fails emissions. Also, the EGR is part of the combustion engine’s cooling system, so not recirculating hot crank case gases works the rest of the cooling system harder, and potentially damages the pistons & cylinders.

        The whole situation is a mess. Thankfully we have a second vehicle that’s a regular gas engine, so we use that one for distance driving, and can just use this one for around-town driving while we figure out what to do next with it.