I hate Phillips screws. For this very reason.
Get a JIS screwdriver. Life changing.
You just need the right size screwdriver
You’re right that phillips screws are prone to cam out if theres a size mismatch, but it doesn’t stop there. Apply too much torque or have a misshapen screw head or bit and you’re out of luck.
Looking at this makes me physically ill
worse when it happens to small screws in electronics. shit like this makes you want to just smash your laptop
FRAMEWORK. FRAMEWORK LAPTOPS. WHY MUST THEY MAKE THEM SO WEEEEEEAAAAAAKKKKK
Canadian look of superiority
You can still mangle a Robbie if you have the wrong size but you do have to work at it.
Also those combo Robertson/Slot screws made with Chineseium can round out pretty quick.
Torx ftw
I bought a precision screwdriver set to replace the failing RAM on my thin lenovo laptop, which has super tiny screw on the ram slot, withing the first few turns of the screwdriver, I stripped that screw. Fucking thing would not budge, tried the rubber band trick, tried to even find somewhere I can borrow a dremel to cut a line on the head for a flat head, finally had to take it to the repair center at a Micro center and they somehow got it out. Never buying a thin laptop again, and will always check online for repair ability
https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
I’ve had to use this quite a few times on laptop repairs cuz the oem used way too much lock-tite. The trick is to use the point at about a 45 angle toward the outside of the head, impacting in the direction it would turn to loosen. Just be careful it doesn’t slip off and cause more damage. The hardened tip can also be used to cut out a wider cut to maybe fit a small flat head in too.
The main problem wthe the X shaped model is that there are so many different versions with different angles and points oe lack thereof that it can be hard to tell which is which at a glance, increasing the chance of stripping if you don’t check for proper fit.
Not to mention you might be working on something where the prior person mixed and matched different screws head types on the same project!
Pozidriv and Phillips are quite easy to tell apart imo
But JIS and Phillips blows
If people know what they are looking for and the screws weren’t painted over…
JIS is much better than Phillps, as long as you have the exact matching driver.
It’s not an X, it’s a +. I will die on this hill.
And we will let you because no one cares.
Hey look Neatnit’s corpse is getting eaten by birds. Well… they’ve got to eat something. What was it he died for again?
There’s half-dozens of us!
You are technically correct, whoch is the best kind of correct!
I just hadn’t woken up to remember keyboards had a plus sign.
That looks like a really shitty screw to begin with.
Actually looks like an anti removal screw. The inner edges of the plus are sloped, but only in the direction to unscrew.
Use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver and bits. If you own a Japanese automobile, motorcycle, etc., you better use them.
I know what you mean. I have a few older Hondas and there is jis everywhere. I’m talking jis on the dash, jis on the cluster, jis on the sunvisor, seat track, sunroof… Jis on the gotdamnt headliner. The things are practically covered in jis.
Visit the Vessel (Made in Japan) website. I know how you feel, I have a Nissan Leaf.
It took all the way till the last sentence before I got the joke.
I was hoping it would be dry laugh creeper.
Lol mission accomplished
Phillips is identified, in muricuh, by just the cross pattern hole.
JIS is a cross patterned hole, with a separate round indentation in one of the cross corners.
They are very close to each other, but not exact, and can round eachother out.
I have yet to strip any Phillips head screws with my Vessel bits.
Congratulations.
Your ribbon is in the mail.
JIS is definitely a step up from Phillips, as long as you have the right bits and can tell them apart. I run into JIS a lot in bicycle maintenance. But neither of them hold a candle to metric hex. It’s really hard to strip a hex bit until you’re being a total idiot.
I’ve done it. It was a grub screw - so the hex was entirely within the shaft - that was surrounded by loctite, and frankly I never had a chance to get it out. It went circular immediately, just with hand pressure. I ended up having to use a screw extractor.
I was told this was a common problem on ARRMA vehicles and that I should get a more precise type of hex driver. They were expensive but I haven’t had the problem since.
OK yeah that sucks. I’ve run into hex grubs screws before, but on brake levers which I’m pretty sure have to meet compliance stuff like ISO safety standards so the hardware was higher quality.
Also though these are RC size, 5mm screws, so much easier to kill. Apparently the issue is most hex drivers are slightly undersized, and ARRMA like to loctite their axle grub screws to hell.
Blame Henry Ford. The superior screw head style was available to him, but he refused to use it.
You had me at blame Henry Ford.
PZ2 go BRRRRRRRRRRR
I think your drill is the machine that does that, though.
You can accidentally strip a Phillips by hand if you have a half decent driver and a normal quality screw
Torx ftw
Just yesterday I stripped a T25 because I only had a T20 bit on me and underestimated how tightly it was screwed in. Even though it was completely stripped with the T20, the design is so good that using my drill and pressing down with the proper T25 got it out. No screw extractor required!
“Failed to load media”
Bummer. Mobile using the Voyager app, if anyone else has the same issue.
Same, but mine loaded fine. Android.
Security screw with the oval drive.
Fuck that, Robertson, hex or torx.
Robertson is incredible, in Canada it is often used to build outdoor patio for instance, it’s magical to use, I love those screws
In new build stuff, I’ve actually been seeing a lot more torx.
Torx needs to become the standard for screws. They are just better in every way.
In wood yes. But please keep them off my bike. You suddenly really start to enjoy the ball end of your Allen keys when working in tight spots and torx has none of that (and some brand are starting to use more and more torx on their models)
Torx is better but it can still get stripped. Having a set of extraction bits prepared can’t be a bad thing.
The Nordics are far ahead in this. Torx everywhere.
what the fuck where, all i see is philips and hex
Ironic, IKEA is married to PZ2. Which to be fair is a fine standard (aside from the fact that unaware people tend to confuse it with PH2 then wonder why their screws are stripped), it’s just annoying that I have to switch my drill from T20 to PZ2 to build IKEA furniture.
A carbide set of torx bits make a great set of hex extractors. Hell, torx can sometimes be tapped into a drilled hole and turned. Half of the broken or sheared bolts I remove at the shop, I just use a torx bit.
When your bit is used to rescue bolts made with inferior bits, you know you’ve won.
Holy shit, someone who does it as well! Torx bits are so useful for this, I have a fairly high success rate even on the tiny terrible electronics screws I usually work on.
